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Archive for november, 2011

Green Pilgrims

Trees around holy sites, solar panels on the roofs of temples and churches plus no cars on pilgrims roads. These are just some of the initiatives taken by a newly launched Green Pilgrimage Network

“The Green Pilgrimage Network will ask the faithful to live, during the most intense of religious experience, in a faith-consistent way. To travel to a holy place in such a way as to treat the whole world as sacred is to be a true pilgrim”, says Secretary-General of ARC, Martin Palmer in connection with the launch.

water 225x300 Green PilgrimsThe network consists of representatives for ten major religions plus a number of specific pilgrimage centres round the world. The launching of the network was celebrated with festivities in Assisi in which a number of high profiled representatives for WWWF, UN and national and regional governements took part.

At the meeting a number of issues were placed high on the agenda. Amongst other things it was decided to lobby for green zones around holy places, solar panels on roofs plus car-free pilgrimage roads. Further it was decided to publish guides for environmentally sustainable pilgrimages. At the event a green guide to the Hajj was launched.

ARC estimates that app. 100 mil pilgrims take to the roads every year.

Read about ARC World 

Read more about the background

Heritage up for sale

Saint-Èmilion in Aquitaine is buckling under a massive load of debt due to the sparse population of 2500 people and the economic strain posed by the influx of app. ½ mil tourists during summer. Yes, they shop for wine, visit the caves and the chateaux in the countryside and savour the distinct cuisine of the terroir. All the income, however, goes to the private entrepreneurs in the wine business, while the village carries the brunt of the business accruing to the restoration effort of the medieval centre of this unique part of our World Heritage. (Since 1999 the village and landscape has been officially designated as such).

Last winter the mayor came up with the idea to sell one of the magnificent medieval buildings in the village, the Cloister of Cordeliers, for €750.000. The site, which was recently renovated for €570.000, was sold to Jean-Paul Cales, who is vice president of the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and owner of a sparkling wine company since 2008. The sale took place discreetly without a public debate.

st emilion01 300x215 Heritage up for saleThis naturally enraged the local business owners and residents and brought the local historical society to fight the decision. One reason was, that Les Cordeliers Cloître traditionally has offered respite for visitors, wishing to escape the throngs. “It was the last public park, free and open to anyone. A place were even the less wealthy could bring their sandwiches and have a drink among the magnificent ruins”, says Jean-Luc Boisseau, who is the local bookseller and member of the historical society. It appears from the hompepage, that although the new owner claims, that he will keep the cloister open – because he has wine on sale – the cloister has already received an upgrade in terms of restaurants, bars etc.

The whole issue raises the question of how a heritage site can establish a partnership with local businesses in order to finance the upkeep of the heritage, which plays a central role in securing the satisfaction of tourists, but in itself does not generate income. Only 10% tourists travel to Saint-Émilion with a singular focus on the “wine”. The rest wishes to experience a mixture of the historical and natural heritage, the food and the wine. Most local tourism entrepreneurs do not accept this.

One-way of financing this dilemma would be to establish a charitable trust fund to secure the village and its buildings. Unfortunately such foundations are not part of the French tradition. Further, a special challenge is posed by the rampant laicité of the French: No funding may be found for religious buildings be they in ruins or not.

As of now, the sale stands. The locals caved in!

 

The Historical Society at Saint-Émilion 

Cloître des Cordeliers 

The Tourism site of Saint-Émilion

Saint-Émilion.pro

Cradle of Portugal

European Capital of Culture 2012, Guimarães, may cancel part of its program

European Capital of Culture 2012, Guimarães in Northern Portugal, ought to cancel part of its plans for the coming year, claims voices in the Portuguese media. This was debated at a conference this weekend at Paço dos Duques de Bragança in Guimarães organised by – among others – the regional organisation Minho IN. Reason is the austerity caused by the economic crisis. It is irresponsible to go forward with the planned programme in view of the social and economic cuts placed on welfare. Instead the money should be invested in rural tourism in the Alto Minho region. The organisation wishes to be a partner in the future development of the region and is already focusing on supporting sustainable entrepreneurship, green wines and traditional rural crafts.

No, said João Serra, president of the City of Guimarães Foundation to the Correio do Minho. At the present, when Portugal is under close economic scrutiny, it would be an international disaster not to fulfil the commitment made by the Portuguese government towards EEC, he claimed. Adding that culture is not responsible for the financial problems, but may instead be viewed as a solution. Furthermore at this point in the process, it would be more expensive to cancel all the arrangements, than to push forward, he added.

guimaraes4lille 300x225 Cradle of PortugalTwo “cultures”
At stake seems to be the different views of what “culture” is. Is it traditional heritage? Or is it avant-garde dancing, experimental art and installations, highbrow debates and classical concerts galore? As is usual, the programme for the CEC 2012 in Guimarães presents the public with a mixture, thus not deciding one way or the other. Yesterday João Serra thus signed a contract for a Film Production Centre, which is going to promote temporary urban installations in the public spaces of the city, while at the same time financing a research project concerning tourism and development at the University of Minho. Finally 381.000 € were presented to the City in order to get the Tourist Office renovated and to further the production of audioguides in the city. Tit for tat!

Guimarães – cradle of Portugal
In many ways Guimarães is the perfect stage for the unfolding of this division concerning the different views of what “culture” is. On one hand it is a beautiful city, part of our world heritage and complete with medieval buildings galore plus several exciting museums. Further it is generally considered to be the cradle of Portugal in so far as the first king, Afonso Henriques was born and baptised here in 1109. According to legend the baptismal font may still be viewed in the small church, São Miguel do Castelo, next to the remains of his castle. On the other hand, the castle mount also houses the neo-medieval dream of the Estado Novo, the Paço dos Duques de Bragança. This is a monumental rebuilding of a late medieval castle, which was set in motion by the dictator Salazar in 1933. The devastating “restoration” was however undertaken in the spirits of the times, when politico-religious nationalism saw Guimarães as the center of the modern Portuguese nation. It is thus not surprising that the Palace was later transformed into an official residence for the “Presidente do Conselho” and the “President of the Republic”, becoming a monument to the political climate of Portugal in the 20th century. Today it is a museum.

guimaraes5lille 300x225 Cradle of PortugalNo wonder that the creative classes in Guimarães are bent on dusting the somewhat sleepy, but monumental city off, propelling it into modernity by presenting Guimarães as so much more than the “national cradle”. We must not forget, that it is no more than 35 years since the so-called carnation revolution took place, which finally presented the Portuguese people with freedom and democracy.

Goals for CEC 2012
It is, however, also no wonder that the Portuguese nation is pushing the city to live up to its more traditional role. The first 8 months of 2011 showed accoding to the UNWTO an overall growth in the tourism industry by 11%. A lot of this was of course due to the revolutions in Northern Africa. People did not go to Tunisia to play golf this summer; they went (back) to Algarve.  Nevertheless there is no doubt that the Alto Minho region and the cities there – and especially Guimarães – is a revelation waiting to happen for the discerning cultural tourist.

Now is by the way a perfect time to visit. The weather is beautiful and The Ducal Palace is mounting an exhibition on life of the house of de Bragança between the Douro and Minho 1442 -1580.

See the program for CEC 2012 Guimarães

 

The picture of the knight is from the Feira Afonsino – a medieval festival taking place in the summer.

Give it Willingly

Last week witnessed a series of chaotic mishaps in and around the chancery of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. To recapitulate:

On the 15 of October Occupy Wall Street decided to set up shop in London. Originally the group targeted the stock exchange. Guided by the police they ended up at the stairs of Wren’s majestic cathedral. In the midst of the following fracas the senior clerics at the church one after the other ended up resigning. First went a part-time chaplain, Fraser Dyer, later the chancellor, Rev. Giles Fraser resigned, and finally on Monday the dean of the cathedral, Right Rev. Graeme Knowles, decided to step down. As reported in the press, Rev. Fraser resigned because he could not stand the idea of watching the occupiers evicted from the front of the cathedral; Right Rev. Knowles resigned because he could.

During the last couple of weeks the offices of the Archbishop at Lambeth Palace must have looked like beehives on a summer morning. Finally, today, Rowan Williams, the Archbishop, voiced his general concerns in Financial Times, stating that now is the time “to be more specific”. In his opinion we need to raise the issues of more global regulation and the implementation of the so-called “Robin Hood Tax” (as supported by such pro-capitalists as Bill Gates, George Soros and others).

JohnDonneNicholasStone 160x300 Give it WillinglyOne wonders why the senior clerics at St. Paul’s thought they could decide on these matters amongst themselves? As if they had not preached Sunday after Sunday in the presence of the magnificent effigy of John Donne, who on the 2 of April 1620 voiced his concerns about the self same matters in front of the royal family and the government at Whitehall, stating that:

“Certainly no rich man has dealt much in the world, but he has something, of which he does not know the right owner; when he receives usury for his money, that interest is not his money, but when he receives usury again for that, there neither the interest, nor principal was his own money; he takes usury for that money of which he himself was not the owner, because it was ill gotten: If you do truly know the owner, restore it to him; if after a diligent examination of your self, you do not know the particular owner, yet you know it is none of yours, and therefore give it to him, whose it was at first; both before you had it, and before he, from whom you got it corruptly, had it; give it to God, in giving to his poor, and afflicted members; give it to him, and give it willingly, and give it now, for that, which you give at your death, you give by your last will, and you do not give…”

Preached at Whitehall on the 2. April 1620 in front of the royal family and the government.

On the sermons of John Donne -

The Opinion of the Archbishop in Financial Times

Bonfire of Vanities

A major exhibition in Firenze shows the links between bankers, beauty and bonfires in the Renaissance. And presents an opportunity to reflect on the ongoings in Zuccotti Park, St. Pauls Square and Piazza Signoria in Firenze in 1498

In the beginning of October, 1500 young Jews in New York observed Yom Kippur within yards of the Occupy Wall Street Protest site, calling for a year of Jubilee and thus cancellation of all debts. Something, which is also demanded in the ending paragraphs of the book on “debt” written by the highly acclaimed anthropologist David Graeber, chief protagonist of the OWS. In the same spirit we may perhaps view the fact that the Londoners chose St. Pauls Square as their (second) protest location; thus inadvertently shaming the Church of England, costing the careers of three mighty clerics plus showcasing the fact, that the line between noble banking and profiteering or usury is still a theological tightrope not easily walked.

capitalism 300x199 Bonfire of VanitiesIn a democratic, secularised and deregulated society bankers and merchants have of course long been allowed to veer very close to the abyss. Or even transcend it! In the aftermath of the current crisis it has however become abundantly clear that there is a moral issue at stake, which we have somewhat forgotten how to reflect upon.

Had we lived in the Middle age or the Renaissance public condemnation would have been much harsher. Taking rents in any form was considered usury and part and parcel of one of the deadly sins, avarice. This was an opinion held by philosophers and priests since ancient times, witness the prohibition in Deuteronomy (23:19 – 20)

 “You shall not charge interest on loans to your brother, interest on money, interest on food, interest on anything that is lent for interest. You may charge a foreigner interest, but you may not charge your brother interest, that the Lord your God may bless you in all that you undertake in the land that you are entering to take possession of it.”

Later on medieval theologians thought long and hard. Was charging interest the same as theft, asked Anselm of Canterbury? Could one charge for “lost time = lost possibilities”, asked Thomas Aquinas? The answers to these and other questions of the same type were however as often as not unanimous condemnation. It is significant that Dante later placed the usurers together with the blasphemers and sodomites in the inner ring of the seventh circle of hell.

The ban on taking rents did not as such forbid every type of business. But it prohibited any form of business, which did not fall into the category of joint venture. Thus in practice complicating any form of long distance and large scale business ventures not financed by the Jews, who of course according to Deuteronomy were allowed to take interest from the Christians! As the Christians were not brothers!

Letters of exchange
Needless to say the prohibition against charging interest had somehow to be circumvented in order for long distance trade to flourish. In the 8th century the Chinese invented the “letter of exchange” – a financial instrument in the form of a promissory note guaranteeing the holder payment of a specific amount of money at a set time. Later such documents were used by the Arabs, who introduced them to Mediterranean merchants in the 13th to the 15th century (together with other important techniques like the “nought” and papermills).

Naturally the whole point was that such promissory notes could be bought and sold at “overprice”, thus neatly circumventing the prohibition against taking interest. Without doubt this was one of the most important preconditions for the late medieval flourishing of trade as we know it. And further the huge placating donations to religious institutions of all kinds – churches, cloisters, charities – which remorseful bankers and merchants gave, thus financing the artists, who benefited from the many endowments.

Firenze in the 14th to 16th century was of course one of the more prominent centres for this accruement of wealth and art. This is the theme of a beautiful and thought-provoking exhibition currently staged at the Palazzo Strozzi, where art and craft mingles with coins, papers and golden cloths.

The exhibition in Firenze, however, also touches upon the deluge, which hit the city when the Medici Bank defaulted in 1494 and the Dominican monk Savonarola started preaching against the hedonistic vanity of life in the city. It ended when on the last day of the Carnival in 1497 and 1498, Savonarola organised two bonfires of “vain, lascivious, or dishonest things” on the Piazza della Signoria. These highly contested and celebrated events contributed in the end to the friar’s demise, when he was burned as a heretic on the 23d of May 1498. As was the case with Luther the Pope had an issue with Savonarola’s austere morality.

One fascinating thing – which the exhibition unfortunately does not touch upon – was that all the worldly goods, which ended up on these bonfires, were collected by dissatisfied and disenfranchised youngsters. These piagnoni and fanciulli took to robbing people’s homes and afterwards throwing everything from golden cloth over musical instruments to secular paintings in the fire!

Interestingly enough these robberies were undertaken, while the youngsters went singing through the streets and alleys. One of the favorites were the text from Ps. 132: Ecce quam bonum iucundum habitare fratres in unum – Behold how good and pleasant it is for brethren to dwell together in unity. Maybe it will not last long, before this is the favorite bonfire song in St. Pauls Square.

Read about Medici Money: Banking, Metaphysics and Art in Fifteenth-Century Florence. By Tim Parks. W. W. Norton and Company 2005.

Read the book about the Bonfire Songs and Savonarola’s musical legacy. Here included a CD with the only available recording of the original music.

Listen to a Jewish recording of Ps.133

See the exhibition at Palazzo Strozzi

Read the book leading up to the OWS -action by David Graeber