Skip to content

Posts from the ‘Spain’ Category

jul 18

Z_1590_Patio-de-los-Leone-z

Lions at Alhambra

The “coolest” place in heat-waved Spain is Alhambra, where the Fountain of Lions newly opened after ten years of restoration

For more than ten years visitors to Alhambra has had to muster all their fantasy in order to visualise the water flowing in the great Court of the Lions. However, these days the head of restoration, Carmen Tienza, and her 278 workers are finalising the reinstallation of the twelve great lions and new hydraulic waterworks. Soon water will again splash quietly seducing the more than 3 mil visitors, which each year climb the citadel in order to experience this magic place.

The fountain of the lion is probably one of the most beautiful pieces of Islamic art ever conceived. Placed in the inner courtyard of the Nasrid dynasty palace, its construction is dated around 1370. The Patio de los Leones – Court of the Lions – is oblong and measures 35 m in length by 20 m in width. It is surrounded by a low gallery supported on 124 white marble columns. A pavilion projects into the court at each extremity, with filigree walls. Up from the ground the walls are covered with blue and yellow tiles bordered above and below with enamelled blue and gold. In the centre of the court is the Fountain of Lions, an alabaster basin supported by the figures of twelve lions in white marble symbolising strength, power, and sovereignty.

restoration patio leone 300x199 Lions at Alhambra

Restoring the Fountain of Lions

The palace is situated on a hilltop covering more than 400 acres and managed by the “Patronato de la Alhambra y el Generalife”, which apart from the beautiful palaces showcases more than 400 plants and a number of wild animals as badgers and a wild boar plus a huge concentration of bird-life. Into this paradise no more than 8400 persons are allowed daily, carefully limiting access in order to preserve the place. Nevertheless budget this year is €25 mil, 11 % more than 2011. Income is not only created through the sale of tickets, but also shopping at the museum etc.

During the restoration – which has cost € 2.2 mil – the courtyard has been repaved with new slabs of marble, replacing the gravel, which has covered the place up until now. Archaeological investigations have shown that at a later point the courtyard was covered with a garden. Originally, however, the floor was covered with a marble pavement made of Macael. This enables visitors to get close to the fountain and thus admire all the details of the carefully cleaned and restored lions; complete with their new ears made of a mixture of lime and marble and happily again sprouting 5000 litres of cool and carefully monitored water from their mouths.

Read more about the restoration at Archaeologia Terrae Antiquae

Link to the official homepage of Alhambra de Granada

In need of luxury? Spend the night at the fabulous Parador de Granada located in a former 15th century convent on the site of the Alhambra

 

apr 26

Catalonia 1400

Beautiful exhibition in Barcelona highlights Gothic art..

Catalonia 1400 is the first major exhibition of Catalonian art from one of the most creative periods, characterized by its affinity to what is generally termed “International Gothic”. Prominent in the exhibition is works by  artists like Louis Borrassà, Rafael Destorrents, Peter and John Bernat Martorell.

Objects exhibited range from the delicate miniatures found in illuminated manuscripts to embroideries, golden metalworks and paintings in the form of retables. Four panels from a retable of Saint George by Bernat Martorell are on loan from Louvre. They used to hang in the chapel of St. George in the Palau de la Generalitat.

motarell stor 240x300 Catalonia 1400Another highlight is the miniatures found in the Missal of Saint Eulalia by Rafel Destorrents and the Ferial Psalter and Book of Hours by Bernat Martorell.

The exhibition is accompanied by a catalogue.

Catalunya 1400. El Gòtic International
29.03.2012 – 15.07.2012

Read more about the exhibition at the dedicated homepage

Catalogue: Catalunya 1400. El Gòtic International. Barcelona 2012

 

 

apr 15

Girona Tapestry

The Girona Tapestry or – as it is called in Catalan – El tapiz de la Creación recently underwent a massive restoration and cleaning. Now it is once again exhibited in the Museum of the Cathedral of Girona.

The tapestry is a Romanesque embroidered panel from the end of the11th century. Today it measures 3.65 x 4.70 meters; but the latest research has shown that it must have measured app. 4.80 x 5.40 meters. The panel is worked in couched or laid needlework; the same technique which is used in the Bayeux tapestry. The Girona Tapestry, however differs from that of Bayeux in so far as the former is totally covered by embroidery. It is worked in fine wool and linen in a wide variety of colours, predominantly green, yellow, red, burnt earth, blue and white on a reddish wool twill ground, most likely spun and weaved in Catalonia. The historian Palol reached this conclusion, when he studied the linguistic peculiarities of the embroidered quotations from the Bible.tapizdelacrecao2 300x241 Girona Tapestry

The tapestry records the creation myth from Genesis, organised as a wheel with Jesus as pantocrator in the centre, topped by the Holy Ghost and surrounded by the four winds. At the bottom of the tapestry was originally a frieze, featuring “The invention of the Cross”.

Finally at the border is a menologium, a series of square medallions picturing the seasons and the months represented with their respective “works”; much like the frescoes picturing the agricultural year, which may be seen elsewhere, e.g. in the Royal Pantheon in the Basilica de San Isodoro in Leon in Spain. Another piece of art, which belongs to the same aesthetic universe, is the somewhat earlier Girona Beatus dated to the 10th century.

tapiz1 300x200 Girona TapestryIn connection with the cleaning of the tapestry it was discovered that the wool-work at the back of the embroidery had been protected by hessian. This had contributed to the protection of the original colours. A discussion of these colours and many more details may be found in a recent book, which was published last year. In it Manuel Castiñeiras advocates the idea, that the tissue was never for hanging, but was instead used as a carpet in the cathedral choir and more specifically that it was made in 1097 in order to mark a conciliatory meeting between the Catalan church and the king, Ramon Berenguer II, whose sister-in-law, Mafalda de Apulia, may have overseen the production of the tapestry in the monastery of Sant Daniel de Girona. All this is however slightly speculative.

At least one question begs an answer: Is it possible that the tapestry could have been used as a carpet, considering the fact that this would have meant that the celebrating priest literally would have had to “walk” on God?

In a recent article by the historian, Ingrid Heidrich, this question is not directly confronted. However, in her opinion the tapestry would primarily have been used as a Cortina, that is as a curtain separating the clerics from the lay people during mass. More likely, though, is the proposition that the textile might have been used in diverse ways according to the occasion, the liturgy etc. For instance the sources discussed by Ingrid Heidrich do not specifically mention the uses of such textiles as pallia in connection with burials; which they might have been as is shown in the Bayeux tapestry in the scene, where Eadward is carried to the grave.

Read more about Medieval Catalonia and the Girona Tapestry In medieval Histories 2012 4:2 

The Official report about the recent restoration of the Girona Tapestry

Heidrich, Ingrid: Wandbehänge und Decken des Frühmittelalters (9 – 11. Jahrhundert)IN: Frühmittelalterliche Studien vol 40, p. 103 – 125

Link to the homepage of Ingrid Heidrich about the tapestry

Link to a homepage about the tapestry in Catalan

Read more about the Tapestry, where details of the different panels may be seen

Read about the symbolism at the official homepage of the Girona Cathedral

Pere de Palol: El Tapis de la Crecaó de la Catedral de Girona, Barcelona 1986.

El tapís de la Creació / El tapiz de la Creación. By Manuel Castineiras. 
Capítol Catedral de Girona.
 Girona 2011.


Photos of the Girona Tapestry

 

feb 16

cadiz

Carnival at Cadiz

What will be the most prominent satirical theme in Cadiz this carnival?

Indulgent feasting, merrymaking, and parades galore characterize most carnivals. The Carnival at Cadiz, however, has a special character, which sets it apart from other European festivals like that of Venice or Köln. The reason is that Cadiz during carnival is home to a huge number of groups performing political satires at every street-corner. The question is: What will be the most prominent satirical theme in Cadiz this Carnival?

cadiz carnival 20111 300x224 Carnival at Cadiz

Carnival 2011

The Jury is still out as the Carnival is yet to be officially opened today, the 16th of February and no one will really know until the end of the festivities next week. A safe bet, however, is that the royal scandal concerning the Duke of Palma de Majorca, formerly Inaki Urdangarin, who is married to Princess Cristina, youngest daughter of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, will be high on the agenda in Cadiz the following week. The issue at stake is a major fraud involving millions of Euros, which according to the press has been siphoned through a non-profit foundation, the Nóos Institute, chaired by the younger members of the royal family. The object of the Foundation is to land multimillion-euro contracts in order to organise events for regional governments in the Balearic Islands and Valencia. Rumor has it, that the royal couple overcharged for their consultancy and that the Institute was nothing but a front for this business venture. Currently investigations are under way. Whatever the truth is behind these allegations, there is no doubt that a number of the satirical performances and songs will focus on this; another theme, however might very well be the European economic crisis; a good guess is that the carnival will be visited by a number of “corrupt Greeks” dressed in sack-cloth and ashes.

Whatever happens it is always huge fun and quite revealing, when one of the largest Carnivals in Europe opens with the final contest between the Concurso Oficial de Agrupaciones Carnavalescas at the Gran Teatro Falla. The competition is divided into four categories - coros, chirigotas (satirical), cuartetos and the comparsas (the serious counterparts to the chirigotas). The categories are established in accordance with the number of voices, singers and instruments featuring in the repertoire. Apart from the performances at the Gran Teatro the groups will also perform in the streets or at the special tribunes eracted around the plazas. Plus there are musical performances all over the city in the Flamenco Bars and restaurants.

The history
Most historians believe that the Carnival tradition grew out of the tradition of the Roman Saturnalias, which early on developed into Christian celebrations around Epiphany. Carnival marked the end of these celebrations, which exploded in orgies of “fat eating” before Lent; hence the roots of its name – Carni Vale – “Farwell to meat”. The Carnival at Cadiz is at least 600 years old; it is supposed to have been introduced to Cadiz after the reconquista by merchants and traders from Venezia, where the earliest documented Carnival took place in 1286. The Carnival at Cadiz has, however, had a special history as it has continuously been marred by a succession of bans, prompted by its satires and political impact. Thus it was banned from 1937 until 1975, when Franco died.

See videos at the official site of the Carnival at Cadiz

 

okt 27

huelgas_1_m

Secret Voices

Haunting music from Las Huelgas deserves to be listened to before a visit to the convent.

The Abbey of Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas in Burgos is a cistercian nunnery founded in 1187 by Eleanor of England, queen to the Spanish king of Castille, Alfonso VIII. In 1199 it was incorporated into the Cistercian order. Later it was turned into the burial place for the royal family. It is a national shrine for the Spaniards. Apart from the fascinating royal burials, which can be seen in the nave of the church, the cloister also displays a Muslim tapestry seized a the Battle of Las Navas de Toledo in 1212 and a most remarkable collection of medieval textiles stemming from the royal tombs. All shown on guided tours in the Muso de Ricas Telas. Apart from this Las Huelgas is an evocative place  full of beautiful corners.

bu las huelgas23 lille Secret VoicesAnother treasure is the Codex las Hulgas dating from app. 1300. The manuscript contains 45 monophonic pieces (20 sequences, 5 conductus, 10 Tropes and 141 polyphonic compositions.  Most of the music dates from the late 13th century but some pieces are earlier. The music may be compared favorably with the songs found in the “Cantigas de Santa Maria”, a collection of folk songs from Gallicia.

The Codex Las Huelgas is written on parchment with the staves in red ink. It must have been intended for use in performances and raises the question of how the polyphonic settings crept into the Cistercian cloister, generally known to rule against this.

Since 1977 the Huelgas Ensemble founded in 1971 by Paul Van Nevel has specialized in recording performed many important early Spanish and Portuguese works including some music from the Codex. Recently, however, the wellknown performers “Anonymous” has returned to this musical collection and recorded some of the highlights. Of which the most beautiful without doubt is Ave Mari Stella. Enjoy!

Secret Voices. Codex Las Huelgas: 13th Century Polyphony and Sacred Latin Chant. Anonymous 4. Harmonia Mundi 2011